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CIMFF RAGHAVENDRA RATHORE

by JASMEEN DUGAL

BANGALORE, October 14: One of the most inspiring sub-currents of the Indian fashion scene is the handful of designers who are applying themselves to their craft with energy, rigor, and attention to detail. Chief among them is Raghavendra Rathore, whose background in the ancient city of Jodhpur and training at the Parsons School of Design, New York gave him the insight to inject a blend of aesthetics, craft and heritage in his collections.

Viewing his Castle India Men's Fashion Fair line, it seems Raghavendra is aiming to dress Indian men in all corners of the globe. The collection is so cinematic in its scope that it's high on entertainment value, and because it's so artfully abreast of current trends it is equally high on fashion. The clothes are designed for a man who is proud of the rich Indian heritage but is receptive to the requests of the shrinking global village. A kurta with a rich velvet collar and cuffs is the most obvious example; a pinstriped suit teamed with an orange formal shirt is another. True to form, Raghavendra augments those contrasts skillfully. ''I believe in creating fashion for everybody—with a twist. Clothes form an integral part of our personality. No one wants to go to a place where they look like an absolute alien; clothes can make you a part of the larger democracy,'' he explains.

Raghavendra's collection is his take on governance; the couturier sent out the models dressed as hard-living peons, clerks, politicians. The theme accounted for the utilitarian edge he favors in items such as a hardy khaki shirt with multiple pockets. His clothes aren't fashion-fussy, but such plainness demands a discerning eye. He rewards it with rich detailing. ''I have always wanted to work with this genre closely. However, this collection is not for politicians. We are all living with politics. There is a politician in each of us; we just use our powers differently. This line is a preview of a larger collection that I would be showcasing in Mumbai and Delhi shortly,'' he says, adding, ''I look for inspiration inwardly, not to the west. My collections have a strong sense of Indianess, which I believe is the future trend.''

An Indian soul

On a closing note, I ask Raghavendra if he feels India is ready for a full-on men's fashion week. ''Of course! The biggest advertising comes from the menswear segment. More men are buying labels, so now the bar is being raised. I feel it is the retailers, and not the designers, who will grow this segment by default,'' he contemplates.